THE LONG ROAD TO BUSCALAN

Our journey to Kalinga started with high hopes of finding peace. It was said that the far-flung village of Buscalan has no signal, very low population and still hasn't embrace the pace of a modern life.

And despite the grueling 16-hour travel time, we knew it was a trip worth taking.

The breathtaking landscapes in Kalinga, one of the least explored provinces in the Cordilleras

Together with two college friends, we joined a group of travel enthusiasts called "Where is Frankie" (https://www.facebook.com/wheresfrankie/info/?tab=page_info). The team opt for the Banaue-Bontoc-Kalinga route which includes riding the Ohayami bus and several van transfers.

Ohayami Bus Terminal is located at Fajardo St. Sampaloc, Manila

At the break of dawn the team was nearing its first destination, the lush green fields of Banaue Rice Terraces. We had a hearty breakfast overlooking the scenery which was formerly pinned as the eight wonder of the world.

The 2,000-year old terraces

There are five clusters of the terraces: Batad, Bangaan, Hungduan, Mayoyao and Nagacadan

We left Banaue for a 2-hour van ride going to Bontoc. This is the last point where necessities such as ATM machines, convenience stores and cellphone signal are available. 

Bontoc: A modern city in the middle of the mountains

From there, the journey became a series of sharp curves and hairpin turns.

Marveling the breathtaking landscapes is already a therapy on its own. The wind was carelessly sweeping against my face. And the sound of the water flowing from the river topped the seemingly endless silence. 

But the highlight of the Northern junket is the 2-hour topload ride from Bontoc to Kalinga. It was my first time and I absolutely have no regrets in risking my camera (and my life) for that experience.

View from the topload

Upon reaching Tinglayan, we were greeted by the warm smiles of the locals. But we have yet to reach Buscalan. The only way to set foot in the village is by trekking. We consumed another two hours of walking and exchanging snapshots in between. Despite having porters who carried our bags, it was still tiring for a novice trekker like me. 

Children are on their way to school

The isolated high school.
Children from Buscalan village have to trek their way here

And at last there came Buscalan Village. Our tour guide, "Kuya Charlie" offered us the famous Buscalan coffee. Its bittersweet taste compensates the dropping temperature as dusk starts to sink in. 

The group and the locals had a fair share of stories while most of us begin to unpack. We stayed at Kuya Charlie's cozy house. The big room which is good for 10 people costs P250 per head on a daily basis. There are a lot of foreign tourists staying at his place.  It is very evident with Kuya Charlie who is quite fluent in english.

You can buy a pack of Buscalan coffee as your pasalubong for P200.

Kuya Charlie's humble abode.
A place where tourists usually meet and share their experiences.

When asked why we set off a pilgrimage to the north, one name resounded among us, 

"Apo Whang-Od". 

The 97-year old legend is the last surviving traditional tattoo artist or "Mambabatok". Whang Od traces her roots from the Butbut tribe of Buscalan who are known as the fierce headhunters of the Cordilleras. History also tells us that "batok" or tattoo symbolizes bravery and courage for men and beauty and elegance for women.

Up to this day, the said tradition is still being practiced. Elderly men and women carry distinct tattoos on their arms, chests, back and sometimes even on their entire body.

WHANG-OD, the living legend of Kalinga

With just P200 - P1,500 you can get to experience a thousand-year old cultural practice. The price usually depends on the size and how intricate the design is. There's a board where designs are carefully laid out. 

                               

You will bleed a lot as thorn strikes your skin. But they all say the pain was just prominent in the beginning. "Akala ko sobrang sakit pero tolerable naman pala. Sa una lang talaga", says a girl who got  inked. It usually takes 30-minutes for Whang-Od to finish a small tattoo and an-hour for a bigger design. 

Whang Od uses bamboo sticks, citrus thorn and pine sooth ink to craft every detailed tattoo. She would ask you what design but sometimes she would suggest something that will best suit you. There's an interpreter since the old lady barely speaks in Tagalog. Nonetheless, Apo Whang Od still manages to create an impressive art.

I told Apo that her charm is admired even miles away from her hometown. She says she has her grand daughter (apo sa pamangkin) who once went to Manila to show their tribe's talent.

She was pertaining to Grace, the 19-year old girl who was being groomed as the next sought-after Mambabatok. Whang-Od never married and didn't have children. That's why Grace is expected to continue the legacy of not only their family but also their tribe.

"Magaan ang kamay ni Grace. Kahit dalawang tattoo pa okay lang", one client claims. True enough, Grace's skills are starting to be recognized for this craft.

Weekends are full for the mambabatok and her apprentice. I suggest you visit their house at around 5:00 AM so you can be the first in line. Apo usually cuts the session at around 3:00 PM.

Don't forget to bring candies because there are a lot of kids who will ask you for some sweet treats. You can talk to them while waiting for your turn.

There was a storm and we were stranded for several days. We couldn't go down the mountains since the trail was very slippery. Signal was down and so is the electricity. You could just imagine how our families trembled in panic. 

I could tell you a lot of stories about our mishaps on our way home. Stories that will give you goosebumps and make you say, "good thing you survived". 

All I can give you is an important piece of advice: go there on a good weather and bring a lot of courage with you.

Traveling to Buscalan is probably the most risky but the most rewarding trip I've had. It's a trip that people should try at least once in their lives. After all, if you're seeking for an adventure might as well pursue an off-beat track where you can bring home a bulk of unforgettable stories.

Team Buscalan of Where is Frankie
October 2015