SAPPORO: From an Underrated City to a Cult Favorite


Chilly air, misty rivers and glistening white snow that beams in stark contrast with the sky.


These are the vivid images in my mind everytime I reminisce the trip. Known as the second snowiest city in the world, Sapporo is undoubtedly a winter paradise. Sapporo is located in the island of Hokkaido, the northernmost prefecture of Japan and nearest Russia, making it the coldest region in the country.

Sapporo is one of my dream destinations. However, most tourists would opt to visit Japan's Golden Route - Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. These three cities live up to its reputation as a tourist powerhouse. Tokyo as the modern, exciting megacity; Osaka being the bright foodie paradise and Kyoto standing in timeless, elegant tranquility. 

I’ve visited all three and the experience was good. But there’s something about Sapporo that makes it sit above the rest.
After hosting the 1972 Winter Olympics, Sapporo is finally in the limelight. Now a fast-rising tourist destination in Japan, Sapporo thrives on being the nearest winter destination for South East Asians.It’s fancy but cozy; massive but not complicated. Sapporo knows how to balance the natural wonders with the advantages of a big city.

Plus, it has an efficient grid system which makes traveling less intimidating compared to its other touristy counterparts.
Odori Park separating the city in North and South grids
View from the Sapporo TV Tower
Streets in Sapporo are pretty wide including sidewalks

One of the main highlights of Sapporo is the Sapporo Snow Festival held every February. Over 2 million tourists marvel at the gigantic ice sculptures that lit up the city. I visited last week of December to celebrate New Year's Eve. No ice sculptures yet but experiencing real snowfall is already surreal. 

But other than its abundant, powdery snow, what else would make you fall in love with this underrated city?

1. Stunning, Must-see City View

Stunning and Exceptional
The Ropeway going up Mt. Moiwa
Many people visit Mt. Moiwa after sunset for the perfect 360-night view of Sapporo. I spent the last night of 2019 gazing at the brightly-lit city. It’s so magnificent, no wonder Mt. Moiwa is listed as “One of the 3 Best Night Views in Hokkaido”.
530-meter night view from Mt. Moiwa's Observation Deck


Mt. Moiwa is also dubbed as a “Sacred Place for Lovers”. Not because two people wearing a banana and a heart costume dated here (Lea and Tonyo from the movie, Kita-Kita) but because of the fortune bell that stands in the middle of the observation deck.

When couples ring the bell together, it is believed their love will flourish.
That's me goin' solo at the Fortune Bell 


Opening Hours
Summer (April-November): 10:30 AM – 10:00 PM
Winter (December-March): 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM

Admission (Ropeway + Mini cable car)
Roundtrip for Adults: 1,700 JPY
Roundtrip for children below 7: 850 JPY

Access Information
From Susukino station, take Sapporo's streetcar line to  Ropeway Iriguchi station (200 JPY). From there, a free shuttle bus will take you to the ropeway station (every 15 mins)

2. Try Skiing like Nowhere Else in Japan

Each year, Sapporo experiences an average snowfall of 16ft or almost 5 meters. The first snow usually falls in early December and the heaviest snowfall in February. Hokkaido’s freshly fallen snow is often praised for being dry, weightless and powdery; thanks to the cold air that blows in from Siberia.

The insanely fluffy bliss allows Sapporo to have an abundance of ski resorts within the city. You can easily go to any ski resort for a day trip. Good news is there’s an extensive ski equipment rental services, so there’s no need to buy if you’re not a pro-skier.
The best quality of powder snow is found in Niseko, about 2 hours away from Sapporo. Locals says its blanketed by 20 meters of champagne snow annually, making it the powder capital of the world.

There are four main ski resorts in Niseko - Niseko Village, Niseko Grand Hirafu, Niseko Annupuri and Niseko Hanazono; all boasting its own distinct characteristics. We chose Niseko Grand Hirafu because it offers the best views of Mt Yotei, a stratovolcano that has striking resemblance with Mt. Fuji.
Mt. Yotei or EZO FUJI meaning Hokkaido's Fuji

There's a designated ski area for kids, novice and pro-skiers. We saw some skiers gliding on their own while some have taken private lessons.
Niseko Grand Hirafu is the largest ski resort in Niseko and is becoming increasingly popular even for non-skiing enthusiasts. They can just ride the lift to see the stunning views. There’s also plenty of shops, restaurants and hotels in the area. My dream is to come back here and stay overnight in one of the cozy cottages.

Have some mulled wine while enjoying the scenic view. Fancy isn’t it?
Access Information
Take the bus from Sapporo Station Bus Terminal to Niseko (4,580 JPY Roundtrip)
Travel time is around 120 minutes.

Route:
Sapporo Station Bus Terminal
Makomanai Station
Niseko Grand Hirafu
Niseko Village
Niseko Annupuri

When transferring to another ski resort, take the free shuttle bus which runs every 30 minutes.


Private Lessons Rates: http://www.grand-hirafu.jp/winter/en/school/#private_lessons

3. Enjoy Sapporo Beer at its Birthplace 

Brewing in Hokkaido since 1877, Sapporo is one of the oldest beer brands in Japan. Sapporo's bitter and crispy deep flavor makes it Japan's undisputed king of beers. Today, Sapporo has expanded to 5 breweries across Japan and the beer is savored in 60 countries worldwide.
The Facade of Sapporo Beer Garden







The massive red brick warehouse used to be the original brewery until it closed in 2003. It now stands as a monument and a striking backdrop especially during winter.

Inside the old warehouse is a museum showcasing the beer's legendary roots. There's the gigantic copper tank for brewing, snippets about the founder, Seibei Nakagawa and a gallery of Sapporo's old advertising posters.
A Look Back in History: Sapporo Beer Poster since the late 1800's






Guided tours are available for Y500 including free beer tasting at the end of the tour. 

Museum Admission: 
FREE
Premium Tours (with Nihongo-speaking guide): 500 JPY
Opening Hours: 
11AM - 8PM
One of the most satisfying pairings with a flavorful beer is of course lamb meat. You can’t leave Sapporo Beer Garden without trying this combo. And the specialty? Genghis Khan or grilled lamb meat with vegetables and dipping sauce.

There are five restaurants that serve Eat-All-You-Can lamb meat. We dined at Lilac Hall, a more relaxed atmosphere located at the far end of the beer garden.
Taste is superb. Just the right balance of fat and lean meat. I can tell that it's a high quality meat because the smell isn't too tangy.

Reservation is  recommended: +81-120-150-550

Budget: 1,500 JPY - 4,500 JPY


4. An Exquisite Collection of Musical Boxes

Even with the advent of technology, the crisp melody of musical boxes still appeals to many people. The fanciest and most exquisite collection is found in Otaru Music Box Museum, the oldest and the largest music box museum in Japan.

Inside the 2-story building are tons of music boxes in various shapes and sizes. It's impossible not to find something that you would like. I was actually surprised with the many shops in Otaru focusing in this type of craftsmanship.

Otaru Music Box Museum Built in 1912





Designs are very unique and technically not inside a box. Avid collectors of musical boxes will be overwhelmed in this place. Items may be pricey (cheapest at 3,200 JPY or 1,500 PHP) but if you have the penchant for these collectibles, it's definitely worth it.

Vintage Musical Boxes
The Otaru Musical Box Museum Along Sakaimachi St.

Location
4-1 Sumiyoshicho, Otaru (end of Sakaimachi Street)

Access Information
Take the JR Train from Sapporo station to Otaru station (640 JPY non-reserved and 1,160 JPY for reserved seats). From there, walk for 15 minutes to Sakaimachi Street.

Opening Hours
9:00 AM – 6:00 PM

Admission
FREE

Aside from the Musical Box Museum, there are many other souvenir shops selling musical boxes and glassware along Sakaimachi Street, my favorite area in Otaru. It's easy to fall in love with this attractive merchant street with all its nostalgic cafes, shops, museums and restaurants. Sakaimachi does not have the typical Japanese architecture. Here you will see how Western influence has become deeply-rooted in the city.

Otaru opened as a port city in 1899. Many trading companies built impressive Western buildings which are well-preserved to this date. Today, the warehouses on the side of the canal serves as shops, cafés and restaurants. You will find it along the famed Otaru canal which had adorned Hokkaido postcards for many years.

 Take a canal cruise which operates daily
You can choose the daytime or night cruises

Otaru Canal Cruise Rates
Adult: 1,800 JPY
Children: 500 JPY

Other Attractions in Otaru
Bank of Museum of Japan
Museum of Venetian Art
Glass Workshops

5. Seafood, Steak and Dairy Are Their Biggest Stars


Japan ranks high on every food lover’s list. From the preparation to the actual taste, food in Japan is exceptionally good. Hokkaido, Japan’s main farming region is best known for its dairy products. But there’s also ramen, steak and fresh seafood that makes it the northern foodie paradise.

I admittedly ate all the steak I can get during my 6-day stay in Hokkaido. My favorite? The whooping Angus beef from Beef Impact. Grilled over charcoal fire, the delicious thick steak comes with corn and tasty garlic rice. Price is more reasonable compared to other steak houses in Japan. During lunch, you can even get 200g steak, rice and miso soup for just 1,000 JPY! 
Rangiri Steak
Beef Impact: Only in Hokkaido with its 6 branches across Sapporo

Address
Tanukikoji Arcade, Chuo-Ku Minami 8, Sapporo
Opening Hours
11:30 AM - 10:30 PM
Price Range
1,000 JPY - 3,000 JPY

Tokyo's famous steak has reached Hokkaido's city center. Serving exquisite, thick, high-quality beef is Ikinari Steak. Ikinari meaning “Sudden Steak”. They have cult favorites  such as sirloin, tenderloin, rib-eye and the premium kuroge wagyu sirloin . They offer steak by the gram so if you order 200g, it’s around 1,800 JPY and a 300g is 2,700 JPY.

You can choose your steak if it’s American, Japanese or the prized Japanese black beef.
The wildly popular 300g rib-eye steak
My 2nd try: 200g sirloin steak
Ikinari Steaks has 250 restaurants all over Japan
Location
4-8 Minami Nishi, Chuo Ku Fuji Building 1F, Sapporo
Opening Hours
11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
Price Range
1,500 JPY - 3,500 JPY

Aside from steak, ramen is also a must-try in Sapporo. Ganso Ramen Yokocho or Ramen Alley has 17 restaurants serving miso ramen, the most famous soup of Sapporo. Ganso Ramen Yokocho is actually the birthplace of miso ramen with the very first restaurant opened in 1951.
Foodies don't mind queuing at Ganso Ramen Yokocho
Each restaurant can only serve 10 people at the most 
We dined at Shirakaba Sansou and ordered the signature Sapporo Miso Ramen (780 JPY). The delicious balance of aromatic miso (soybean paste), spices and broth creates a rich fatty soup topped with chashu (braised pork belly), leeks, onion, egg and nori. I must admit, this is the most soul-warming bowl of miso ramen I've ever tasted.

Location
Chuo-Ku Minami 5, Jonishi 3-6 N.Grande Bldg 1F
Access Information
3-mins walk from Susukino Station Exit 3
Price Range
600 JPY - 2,300 JPY

Thanks to its surrounding waters such as the Sea of Japan and the Pacific Ocean, Hokkaido gets a good share of seafood especially crab. In fact, one thing is certain when you go to Japan. The Japanese love crab.

A short walk from the Sapporo TV Tower is the Nijo Market. From Snow crabs, King crabs, Hairy Crabs and Thorny Crabs, everything is readily available in this jampacked place. The big king crab is at an average of 14,000 JPY or 130 USD. It is not cheap but people still buy it.
Thorny crab 
Aside from crab, the variety of seafood at Nijo Market is endless. From scallops, shrimps, urchins to caviar, everything is found here.

Location
1 Chome Minami 3, Johigashi, Sapporo
Access Information
5-minute walk from Odori Station on the Nanboku, Toho and Tozai Lines
Opening Hours
Shops - 7:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Restaurants - 7:00 AM - 9:00 PM

Another place where you can have your seafood feast is in Otaru. In fact, locals would say this is where you can find the island’s freshest seafood. We saw a variety of restaurants along Sakaimachi offering seafood bowls and grilled dishes at reasonable prices. You can also walk Sankaku Market for other choices of seafood delicacies.

Fresh Seafood Bowl
King Crab
Baked Scallops
With its vast land area, it's easy for Hokkaido to have large dairy farms. Hokkaido actually produces more than half of Japan's dairy products. They produce good quality milk, cheese, butter and they boast their incredibly tasty soft-serve ice cream. 

Everywhere I go, the soft vanilla soft-serve ice cream is phenomenal.
Don't forget to stuff yourself with Hokkaido sweets! Also along Sakaimachi St. is the famed LeTao Bakery. Originally known for manufacturing and selling chocolates, LeTao emerged as a pastry empire when it started selling cakes and pastries in 1998. Their best seller is the Double Fromage Cheesecake which also has a danish version.
Fromage Danish at 287 JPY
LeTao has 6 branches in Otaru alone. When you're in the area, try the other delectable dessert shops in Otaru such as the Kitakaro Otaru, Rokkatei Cafe and Otaru Saint Germain. Not to worry, all the walking will surely burn the sweet treats!

Location
LeTao Main Shop. 7-16 Sakaimachi St. Otaru, Hokkaido 
Access Information
5-minute walk from Minami-Otaru Station (JR Hakodate Line)
Opening Hours
9:00 AM - 6:00 PM

I would always remember my Sapporo trip fondly. This postcard-perfect city of Japan gave me the perfect balance of relaxation and exploring new places. I fell in love with Sapporo not only because I'm a winter wanderlust but mainly because of the food, laidback atmosphere and all the picturesque places I'd willingly go back to.

True enough, this underrated city has emerged as a tourist cult favorite. 
Maybe next time I’ll have someone to ring the bell with me. Just kidding.

Comments

  1. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. You made me feel i am in Sapporo because of your vivid descriptions. Highly informative, Kudos!

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